Trip Report: Training - High-Angle Self Rescue 4 - Tandem Rappels
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Training - High-Angle Self Rescue 4 - Tandem Rappels By Steph Stamm |
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| CLIMBING | 05/26/2026 | NTD+ |
| Every Tuesday this May, Paul Gettings ran his 10th annual High Angle Self Rescue Training series. Each class focused on a rescue scenario and built upon the skills learned the week before: escaping the belay, ascending a fixed line, hauling an injured climber, and finally tandem rappelling. Along the way, Paul emphasized a few core rescue principles, chief among them: don't make the situation worse. Another favorite lesson was to "start by smoking a cigarette" - take a moment to assess the situation, understand what happened, and develop a plan before rushing into action. The series kicked off on May 5 at The Speed Trap in Big Cottonwood Canyon, where participants learned how to escape the belay. In this scenario, climbers were attached to a ground anchor while their partner was "unconscious" and weighting the rope. Students learned how to transfer the climber's load to the anchor, allowing the belayer to safely leave the system and assist the injured climber. Once everyone had practiced escaping and re-entering the system, the group celebrated Nathan Chaffee's birthday with an assortment of baked treats before heading home. On May 12, club members gathered at Dogwood Crag to learn how to ascend a fixed rope. Building on the previous week's lesson, students imagined that they had already escaped the belay and now needed to reach their injured climber. Participants learned to construct a foot loop with a friction hitch, use a second hitch or mechanical ascender for progress, and efficiently climb the rope by alternating between the two systems. They also practiced passing pieces of protection while ascending, an important skill when the rope runs through intermediate gear placements. The third session, held on May 19 at Ledgemere, focused on hauling an injured climber. Participants learned how to rig and operate a 3:1 hauling system, including techniques for capturing progress with friction hitches and reducing system friction. Many were surprised by how easily a properly constructed hauling system could raise a climber significantly heavier than themselves. As always, the evening featured plenty of discussion about alternate rigging methods and rescue considerations. The series concluded on May 26 with tandem rappels. Participants took turns playing both rescuer and injured climber while practicing techniques for safely descending with a partner who could not rappel independently. Students learned how to rig the system, securely attach the injured climber, and manage the descent while maintaining control and safety. The evening also happened to be Steph Stamm's birthday, giving everyone another excuse to enjoy homemade baked goods between rescue scenarios. Over four evenings, participants gained hands-on experience with rescue techniques that most climbers hope never to use, but should understand before they are needed. The annual series once again provided an opportunity to learn, practice, ask questions, and build confidence in managing climbing emergencies while spending time with fellow club members. |
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