Trip Report: Rock Climb-Classic Teton Moderate Multipitches
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Rock Climb-Classic Teton Moderate Multipitches By Nathan Chaffee & Steph Stamm |
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| CLIMBING | 07/17/2025 | MSD |
| Seven intrepid souls - David, Steph, Nathan, Bryan, Paul, Sharon and Edu - traveled to Grand Teton National Park for three days in search of classic alpine adventure, which as it turns out, there was no shortage of. Traveling up Thursday night, the team gathered at the American Alpine Club's Teton Climbers Ranch, a rally point for adventurers of all likes to find inspiration beneath the imposing peaks above. With a cabin to themselves, everyone quickly yet cozily settled in after discussing the plan for the next day. Bryan and Edu roused an alpine start for a venture up Garnet Canyon, where they would ascend the famous Irene's Arete (5.8 III, 7p). The remainder of the team opted for sleep and coffee, yet still managed the first round of ferries across Jenny Lake and into Cascade Canyon to climb the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire (5.6 II, 5p). The approach for both teams proved to be daunting - each gaining upwards of 3000 vertical feet before any climbing took place. The team up Symmetry negotiated a bushwhacky couloir of loose rock with bits of 4th class scrambling, the heat of exertion and the morning sun upon them. Meanwhile, the team up Irene's would initially fare better on maintained trail, yet still faced less than intuitive path breaking to the base of their climb, and the cold mountain winds blowing down the Middle Teton Glacier. The experience was similar en-route, with both teams finding a sense of humility on stiff grades climbed long ago, before the advent of modern gear and sticky rubber. Several hours of climbing later, afternoon storms would stymie the Symmetry team before the final pitch, forcing a long, unplanned rappel into the gully below, while the team on Irene's had narrowly just topped out and was able to walk down successfully. Following a short rendezvous at the ranch, both teams drove into town to restock on bail supplies and celebratory storytelling amid pizza and beer at Pinky G's. Saturday the group decided on an "easy" day, venturing back into Cascade Canyon to climb the moderate Guide's Wall (5.8 II, 6p). The "modest" 1.5 hour approach hike is one of the shortest in the Tetons, and indeed seemed pleasant compared to the previous day's realization that we weren't in the Wasatch anymore. Three rope teams then all but raced up the wall, negotiating fun if not committing movement on pristine alpine granite. However, afternoon storms once again beat the group to the top, forcing retreat just shy of the final pitch. Despite this, the team claimed victory for a memorable and enjoyable day, ending the night with a chuckwagon dinner at Dornan's. Sunday, with only so much gas left in the proverbial tank, the team departed to the Hoback Shield South of Jackson for a fun half-day of limestone sport cragging. For most, this was a great way to cap off a weekend filled with adventure before making the trek back to Utah. For a few others, the nearby Granite Creek Waterfall and Hot Springs was the final stop for some much needed rest and rejuvenation before finally heading home. |
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